Day One of the United Nations Climate Change Conference 2009

Reporting from Copenhagen - After a long day of dire warnings and impassioned pleas about the world's changing climate, hundreds of Danes and visitors from around the globe bundled themselves against a damp cold Monday and filled the Copenhagen town square.

They jumped with a live rock band, pedaled stationary bikes on display and gazed at a 65-foot rotating globe.

At the party entrance hung a banner, stenciled in green with a play on words that summed up the crowd's mood: "Hopenhagen."

The opening day of climate talks is really statement day, with countries laying out their stalls and sizing each other up. Behind the scenes, though, the negotiations are in turmoil. Last Friday, on the eve of the talks, the Philippines dropped one of the G77 plus China group's chief negotiators, the redoubtable Bernarditas de Castro Muller. This was presumed to follow US and EU pressure on the Filipino president by Hillary Clinton to remove any perceived obstacles to the talks. But you can't keep a good women down: de Castro Muller has been promptly signed up by the Sudanese delegation to negotiate on the G77's behalf. You can almost hear the groans of disapproval in Washington and London where she is known as the "enforcer".